Menswear fall collections and womenswear pre-fall collections are released pretty close together, so it's no surprise that many houses work similar themes for the complementary collections. This was the case at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing looked to czarist Russia's military to rework house staples, like moto pants cut in quilted satin and plush velvet. With such an ostentatious source of inspiration, the collection turned out surprisingly austere. Rousteing turned down the hardware and avoided the prints he used for women's Pre-Fall and opted for a cleaner, meaner aesthetic for the men's collection. The tailoring was cut closer too, with endless outerwear options, from embellished wool overcoats to pony hair biker jackets. Slouchy leather boots contrast some of the polish, but the overall finished product is all luxe. Rousteing is dressing generals, not mere soldiers after all.